WIDECRAFT: Jamming & Offwidth crack climbing course

Based over 2 days, building tips tactics & techniques for skills improvement …

Wide cracks can vary from hand jam size through to squeeze chimneys so we will touch on all of these techniques over the 2 day so you have tactics for all sizes.

When: Weekends or weekdays (Based over 2 days) Arranged around your dates throughout the year.

Where: Cornwall & Peak district.

Who: Based on 2 or 4 climbers max

(NOTE: Due to the strenuous nature of the style, to get the best from the workshop weekend you should be capable of climbing at HVS as a 2nd)

Day Rate Cost:

4 climbers: £80 per person
2 Climbers £125 per person

Crack Climbing Workshop Covers:

PREPARATION

• Personal protection & associated problems issues & alternatives
• Clothes
• Knee & Elbow pads
• Shoes/boots?
• Jam gloves/ankle pro
• Taping up
• Harnesses
• Helmets
• Warming up: Injury & Injury prevention

CLIMBING TECHNIQUE:

Covering both Traditional offwidth & Levittation.

Hands:

• Hand jamming (tight to wide) & cross over into fist.
• Foot jam technique for above
• Fist jamming
• Foot jam technique for above
• Hand/hand stacks (Butterfly Jam)
• Hand/fist stacks
• Fist/fist stacks
• Thumbs up/Thumbs down
• Palming

Footwork:

• Heel/toe
• T stacks
• V stacks
• Hip/knee/foot bar/lock
• Groin/knee/foot bar/lock
• Heel to lock/hooks
• Banana foot
• Heel in/Heel out

Arms:

• Chicken wing
• Arm bar & gaston
• Double chicken wing
• Shoulder roll/shrug

Knees:

• Knee bars/lock
• Double knees
• Hip to knee bar
• Knee to foot lock

Levittation:

• Stacks & knee locks
• Rotating
• Resting
• Squeeze chimneys:Knees/Arms/Back/Butt & shoulders

LEADING: Tips & tactics

• Scoping the route
• Left or right side in?
• Breaking it down & tactics
• Setting up for the lead (Gear)

Protection:

• Big cams: Dmm, Wild country, BD, Valley giants, Merlin, differences & benefits of each.
• Bigbros: Extendable tubes, benefits, pitfalls & associated problems with each
• Rope, single or double? (Tag lines)
• Quickdraws/extenders, long or short
• Benefits/pitfalls rope jam (Body or knees)
• Bumping cams
• Placing Bigbros
• Leap frogging

TRAINING TIPS:

• Shoulders
• Core
• Legs

Over the 2 days we will be both top roping to improve techniques & for those feel solid leading, please contact me regarding a kit list to bring with you.